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Bangkok's Airport of Smiles in Crisis

Written by Our Correspondent

Friday, 13 July 2012

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Brace for a wait

Substandard construction, inadequate design, cause delays, frustrate millions

Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport, which opened only six years ago on what amounted to a swamp, is approaching a crisis stage with overcrowding and increasingly impaired runways, travelers and officials say.

Designed by Helmut Jahn of Murphy/Jahn Architects of Chicago, the airport was in trouble the day it opened, 25 km east of Bangkok, and has rarely been out of trouble. Its construction was widely believed to have been riddled with corruption and mismanagement. The terminal had to be reconfigured shortly after it opened, with offices having to be closed so the space could be converted into toilets. The facility was designed with a capacity of 45 million passengers when it was opened in September 2006, a year late at that point. It now handles 51 million passengers a year as Thailand’s tourism industry booms.

Although most airports have teething troubles, Suvarnabhumi has become a near legend for frustrated travelers. Some passengers were forced to wait up to four hours for their baggage to appear on the day it was inaugurated. Cracks began to appear in taxiways and runways almost before it opened and have continued regularly. Aviation and tourism executives have warned repeatedly that the government and the corruption-riddled Airports of Thailand, which administers the facility, must work to maintain safety standards.

The west runway closed for repairs 209 times in 2011 and has been closed 55 times since the beginning of 2012. The eastern one has been closed 66 times, mostly to repair existing cracks. The east runway is now expected to remain closed until Aug. 9 while repairs are made, with aircraft backing up overhead in holding patterns for up to an hour and more as they wait to land. In June, Cathay Pacific warned that there could be delays because of the runway would be closed for months of repairs.

“These are not the isolated sort of corrections expected at the opening of new projects. It is only 5-1/2 years old. These are deeply flawed, fundamental systems deficiencies reflective of a broader mentality,” wrote an engineer on the Thai Visa Forum website. “ The Thai government is trying to remedially correct them, which is always inferior to doing them correctly in the first place…Thailand's front door and calling card to the world is suffering signs of obsolescence.”

Officials insist that there are no safety concerns, and that the runways are constantly monitored for faults, hence the frequent closures while the problems are taken care of. There are growing fears, however, that piles which were sunk deep into the ground to support the runways on the waterlogged ground weren’t long enough. Two sinkholes two feet across and two inches deep were discovered in the west runway on July 5, causing apprehension that the soil underneath the runway was subsiding and resulting in a 50-minute closure. An airport official said the sinkholes were caused by water leaks, however. Flights by Thai International and other airlines were delayed, with four diverted to other airports while workmen struggled to take care of the sinkholes.

The subsoil is of major concern. The average Boeing 747-800, weighing nearly 340 tonnes, slams into a runway at a speed of 188 kilometers per hour. An Airbus A380 double-decker weighs in at 590 tonnes. At full capacity, the airport is designed to handle 76 flight operations per hour. Scores of planes land at Suvarnabhumi every day, with even single-aisle jets weighing 100 to 200 tonnes.

“A runway failure of this type should not be misconstrued as the problem,” wrote the engineer on the Thai Visa Forum website. ”A runway failure such as this is a symptom of a much greater problem, caused by a couple of likely sources. The higher probability is that inferior foundations are the most likely symptom… Less likely is an inferior runway slab itself….The key is the foundation.”

Beyond that, the Airport of Smiles appears to be anything but. It has been hit by a multiplicity of problems including power outages, escalators that often break down, inconvenient layout that requires passengers to walk long distances to jetways and many other inconveniences. The terminal’s roof leaks, air conditioning in the terminal is insufficient in Thailand’s baking tropical heat.

On June 22, a power outage took the airport’s control tower, the tallest in the world, out of operation, delaying takeoffs and landings for nearly 50 flights.

“In a country that prides itself on its hospitality, it is an airport that makes you feel unwelcome and unwanted,” one seasoned traveler told Asia Sentinel. “The terminal is miles long and too narrow, making it inconvenient to navigate. The toilets are small, dingy and hidden away. There is no free wi-fi. The restaurant choice is limited and the eating places are also tucked away at the end of vast corridors devoted to Prada and Hermes. It is in my view the worst new airport in Asia.”

One recent traveler on a flight in from Hong Kong said that as the plane circled for an hour, the pilot became increasingly sarcastic and angry with the situation but reassured passengers there was enough fuel.

“Last time I flew into Bangkok I noticed the storm drain beside the taxiway and apron was cracked, broken and twisted,” a passenger said. “It was falling apart, no different really to the state of the storm drains beside country roads after a few years or the concrete canal banks in Bangkok which have been under constant repair since at least 1995 because the concrete quality is so poor.”

Sisdivachr Cheewarattanaporn, president of the Association of Thai Travel Agents, told The Nation newspaper in Bangkok that the problems at the airport would hurt foreign travelers' confidence if they aren’t solved.

"The government should have clear measures to take care of the airport and air traffic in cases where unexpected situations arise,'' he said, adding that news of problems at the airport circulates around the world quickly, hurting the country's image.

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written by gai, July 13, 2012

Taksin's blue ribbon project

Hmmm
written by Simon, July 14, 2012

I suspect the writer doesn't travel much.

Well I do and really BKK is fine and far far better as an airline terminus than most of those in the region (try JKT or KL) and light years ahead most of the US and Europe. It's a far better experience than any in Australia and the food is better than mostly better than Changi.

All I would ask for is a decent bookshop and, yes, free wifi (which also doesn't exist most of those listed above).

-1

Misleading Article
written by Chris Luke, July 14, 2012

There is free wi-fi just ask at the Reception desk as you walk out to the Gates. I admit not well advertised.

I use the airport a great deal. It is far better than Heathrow which is a disgrace and many other European airports.

However, if the construction standards are not there, there will be problems. The move of the Low Cost Carriers to Don Muang will help in the future on passenger numbers.

bkk
written by tommymackem, July 14, 2012

flew in and out of bkk 8 times,only complaint,long wait at imigration sometimes.

not as bad as made out
written by Mickey Mao, July 14, 2012

if you fly business class there is no problem whatsoever - they have priority immigration in and out
Pain in the a-- is taking off your belt and shoes at security check though
Infrastructure /runways wise wasn't Thaksin in power when the airport was built ? say no more
The highway to the airport has sunk as well in places.

The duty free concessionaire at the time 6 years back was even selling out public space in the duty free area at rental rates with a blessing.
As HKG’s ICAC is now proving with recent tycoon charges and former Govt No 2 Rafael Hui also charged , no-one is above the law.
We can expect even bigger misconduct arrests on the horizon.
Thailand should heed and follow suit or it will never change.

Mr.
written by Chas E McKinney, July 14, 2012

The above article only begins to scratch the surface of the myriad of code failures with regard to the construction and supervision of building of this airport. It is a total disgrace especially considering the cost as reported. It is in my opinion simply an accident just waiting to happen. What has hampered airports in the UK and Europe is a horse of a very different color. These airport are simply over congested and overburdened by the endless security measures that prevail in today's world. Heathrow was built over 50 years ago and the structures are still sound and useable. It is an indisputable fact that the major problems facing the operation of Bangkok's International airport stem from sub standard construction on poorly laid foundations. This in Thailand is an all to common outcome so why should we expect the airport to be any different.

...
written by Suki, July 14, 2012

I agree with those who say the writer of this article must not be much of a traveler. "swampy" is a smashing airport and services most needs there is free-wi-fi as well as plenty of food shops including the food mall on the ground floor which dishes up food at very reasonable prices ,airport staff are friendly and obliging. Also it is one of a few that actually allows one to drop off their passengers by the entrance and not direct visitors to over priced and inconvenient car parks

-1

artist
written by jim cortesos, July 14, 2012

I have no problem flying out of BKK.Remembering Don Muang which was loud chaotic time cap of 60's and 70's Thailand.Yes Swampy is an improvement.Light and space always a nice experience arriving and exiting the Kingdom.

-1

It's Your Life
written by Dr. Warachai, July 14, 2012

Those singing the praises of Suvarnabhumi Airport won't be doing much singing after their plane gets sucked down a sinkhole due to substandard construction. Also, I suppose it is good exercise but also I don't enjoy the 6 mile walk from immigration to my gate. It is only a matter of time before the construction failures lead to a tragedy. Is there any international certification program for airports? It may require international carriers to stop flying there due to safety before anything major changes.

Miss
written by lola, July 15, 2012

I use Suvarnabhumi at least 15 times a year and have had no problems at all. There are motorized walkways everywhere, it's not split into 3 or 4 or 6 terminals so you never have to go a long distance to change a plane. Since the Thai govt. decided to improve the immigration a couple of months ago, there is no waiting anymore. My luggage has always arrived within 5 minutes of getting to the belt. And I think it is a good thing that Thai authorities recognize problems in their airport and are taking care to fix them.
This article harps on initial problems when the airport was built - those are of little concern now. Also the corruption that he speaks about is of no concern to the person who will spend an hour or two catching a flight.
Thailand's image is not hurt in the least by this airport - they have just forecast a 2 trillion baht earning from tourism in this year and they remain the biggest tourist destination in Asia.
If one of a few hundred escalators breaks down 6 years after it was installed (having carried millions of passengers and their baggage) and is repaired in a day - so what?
This article is solidly biased. The writer makes little sense when he calls this the worst new airport in Asia - take a look at Delhi airport with the highest taxes and charges in the world, nothing which works, rooms with their ceilings falling apart, flooding in the rainy season, and a 20 minute hike to the gates. There's no comparison - and Delhi is 1 year old!

-3

Great airport
written by Robert Nolst, July 15, 2012

Though not perfect Suvarnabhumi is a great airport and far better than most airports in the region or even US andEurope. There is free wifi and the food courts are great.

-1

none
written by khiaao, July 15, 2012

I like the airport, better than the ones in the USA

-1

One of the worst in the world. May works sometimes, for some people.
written by Danny, July 15, 2012

I use this airport around 30 times per year and I have to say that it is really one of the worst run airports. I have been offered "ladies" by pimp taxi divers while waiting for my bag to arrive at the carousel--obviously backhands to security ensure their entry to the baggage area. Nearly everytime I arrive or depart, i'm waiting for an hour plus to eventually meet with a highly rude immigration officer. The immigration police have publicly announced in the Bangkok Post, that they have difficulty getting immigration personnel to work at the airport, because it isn't as "lucrative" as working in other customs division. The taxi time to the gate is normally around 15 minutes, and stealing is rife among the baggage workers. Finally, it has one of the highest airport taxes at 24USD per seat. Looks like a great airport on the surface, but corruption and apathy make it the worst in the region, if not the world.

-1

Quoting some guy on a forum?
written by jbo, July 15, 2012

Really, comments on a web forum are expert sources?

It's alright
written by Joe, July 16, 2012

Lots of errors in this report. "Swampy" was in fact designed nearly 3 decades ago. It was only completed 5 years ago. TIT. Had it been completed 3 decades ago it would have been the best airport in the world.

Having said that, it is miles better than the rundown Don Muang which I thought was a complete embarrassment to Thailand's image. It is also better than most airports I have been to in the US, Europe, and even Japan. Could it be made better, definitely, but I would prefer to travel Swampy over LAXative in the US and that dump called Heathrow.

So it has a few bumps in the runway, you clearly haven't noticed that the whole of Bangkok is sinking.
_____________________

We are aware that the planning for the airport began approximately 40 years ago. We do not think that is an excuse for opening a 35-year-old facility. We are also aware that Bangkok has been sinking for nearly as long. Fortunately a tuktuk does not weigh as much as a fully loaded A380, thank you -- Eds.

-1

...
written by Qualtrough, July 16, 2012

The fact that this author quotes the thoughts of a purported 'engineer' on the Thaivisa forum speaks volumes to the accuracy of the entire article. If you know of a greater source of mis-information about Thailand than Thaivisa I would love to know what it is. This is journalism?? Suwannaphum was built on a swamp? Really? So was the entire city of Bangkok. So was Don Muang--just crack open a Thai dictionary and look up the word 'don' if you don't believe me. The teething problems were just that and have been resolved for the most part. The immigration issue has nothing to do with the airport configuration or construction, and is the major complaint of travelers. The 'problem' with Suvannaphum, if there is one, is political. The new airport is associated with ousted Prime Minister Thaksin, who realized plans for a new international airport that had been on the books for 40 some years. Instead of expanding the new airport to deal with increased load, untold sums have been spent keeping Don Muang open, no mind to the inconvenience to travelers forced to wend their way between the two airports. Not only that, but after the October flooding Don Muang was totally shut down for months on end, and there are still no defenses for the airport against flooding of that level and probably never will be. Don Muang is not economically viable as an airport terminal, the land area is totally under-utilized, and should be redeveloped as it is now entirely surrounded by the city. The sooner this stupid behind-the-scenes power struggle between competing airport faction ends, the better.

-1

...
written by Qualtrough, July 16, 2012

The complaints so far can be divided between unsubstantiated claims of construction faults (aka rumors) and complaints about airport service not related to the actual construction and configuration of the airport, such as the taxi issue, immigration problems, etc. Same old, same old, in other words.

____________________________________
Although 250 plus runway closings in the last several months remain unconvincing...

Just the facts!
written by Manny, July 16, 2012

Disappointed in poor journalism or lack of.
The article is full with sensational gossiping and drama but without facts.
It sounds like a sleazy tabloid...

Unfair comment
written by Rupert Schorn, July 16, 2012

I have just returned from Europa, have been to Moscow and Munich and I have to say, the least walking I had to do was at Suwannaphumi Airport, due to the the walk escalators, I nearly died in Moscow and Munich. Also to catch a connecting flight to Chiang Mai was flawless, just took the lift to the first floor and there I was. Immigration was swift and baggage arrived quickly, no problems what soever.

instructional designer
written by william thornton, July 17, 2012

I rarely comment, but this article is intolerable and I ask Thai Visa stop listing such badly researched, biased, unpleasant, and unhelpful articles. I have been flying in and out of Thailand since 1977 and have used up more US passports than I can count with Thai visa stamps. Suvarnabhumi is the best airport I've been in, and I've flown all over the USA and many parts of Asia. There's the great food, the truly friendly smiles, the beautiful people, and the light. What's to like about Narita or Taipei or Seoul? I really can't believe the kind of negativity journalists spread. I think we have to stop it. Nobody is going to bother trying to good work if all you get is mean and ignorant criticism from people who can't even construct a good sentence, much less an airport exceeding its capacity by 5 million passengers a year!.

-1

Not a very accurate article
written by Kurt Sandberg, July 17, 2012

I have used Suvarnabhumi Airport about a dozen times and really like it. The air-conditioning is cool, the choice of places to eat is more than acceptable, and there is plenty of shopping. It's true that sometimes the line at immigration can get backed up but you should see Honolulu. The airport could probably use a few more restrooms but you can't have everything. Remember, its an airport not a 5 star spa.

-1

...
written by Steph, July 20, 2012

Completely agree with this article. Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi is my least favourite airport in SE Asia. Were the architects even thinking when they put pen to paper to design it? Endlessly long walkways, with no moving walkways to help those carrying luggage or children. Seems like they are more concerned with the shopping 'experience' than helping people get from A to B.
Whatever some overpaid consultant might say, most people want to spend as little time as possible in an airport. Bangkok is filled with shopping malls, is there any need for more as you try to leave?

...
written by sheep shagger, July 20, 2012

I really dont know what all the complaints about the air port are.
Every time I arrive there I seldom have to wait more than a few minutes and am always treated with the utmost courtesy.........the staff could not be more helpful
May be some people come to Thailand with the wrong attitude