Must-Have Wine: 2008 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Villages, Chablis, France

We are back on the chardonnay crusade, although with a diversion from the new world to the old one, and to a region that many wine enthusiasts believe is the purest, most pristine expression of the chardonnay grape and par example of terroir – Chablis.

Indeed, it almost impossible to mistake Chablis for anything else, such is the redolence of the soil in…